This is an old favorite with a history nearly as long as that of chowder itself. And although it makes a hearty winter dish, it is also a wonderful way of highlighting the deep, earthy flavors of fresh spring potatoes. Hit your farmers market and find those delightful little jewels, 3/4 to 1 1/4 inches in diameter. However you scrub them, you'll still taste the earth they were born in, and that's the way a potato should taste. There's a reason the French call them pommes de terre, or apples of the earth.
Makes 6 servings
6 strips bacon
1 medium onion, coarsely diced
3 cups chicken broth
1 pound baby potatoes, 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, cut into /2-inch dice
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon ground mustard
Additional salt and pepper to taste
In a large soup pot, cook bacon over medium-low heat until semi-crisp. Drain bacon, chop coarsely and reserve for garnish. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of grease.
Add diced onion and cook until it begins to brown. Increase heat to high, add a bit of chicken broth and deglaze the pot. Add remaining chicken broth and bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, add potatoes and salt, and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
Remove 1 cup of potatoes and mash thoroughly with a bit of the stock to loosen them up, then stir back in along with the heavy cream and mustard, and return to a simmer.
Adjust seasonings and serve, garnished with chopped bacon.
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