Cut the peppers in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a non-stick skillet. Add the onion, garlic, pumpkin seeds, and cumin and cook over medium heat until golden brown, 4 minutes. Stir in the beans, cilantro, and 2/3 of the cheese. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Spoon the mixture into the hollowed peppers. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top and drizzle with remaining olive oil.
Set up your grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium high (400 degrees). Just before cooking, toss the wood chips on the coals.
Arrange the peppers on the grill grate away from fire. Indirect grill until the peppers are tender and the cheese is browned and bubbling, 30 to 40 minutes.
Use a spatula to transfer the peppers to a platter or plates and serve at once.
Adapted from BBQ USA by Steven Raichlen. Copyright 2003 by Steven Raichlen. Reprinted by permission of Workman Publishing Company.
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