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Born in south Lebanon, displaced to Beirut, two grandmothers reflect on Israeli invasions

Mariam Allawiya, 60 (left), and Kafa Wehbe, 67, sit together in a vacant apartment building in central Beirut after they were displaced from southern Lebanon by Israel's current invasion. They both grew up in southern Lebanon, and Allawiya's son married Wehbe's daughter.
Claire Harbage / NPR
Mariam Allawiya, 60 (left), and Kafa Wehbe, 67, sit together in a vacant apartment building in central Beirut after they were displaced from southern Lebanon by Israel's current invasion. They both grew up in southern Lebanon, and Allawiya's son married Wehbe's daughter.

BEIRUT, Lebanon — Mariam Allawiya and Kafa Wehbe sit on a sun-drenched balcony, smoking.

They both grew up amid olive groves in southern Lebanon. Allawiya’s son married Wehbe’s daughter. They’re grandmothers now.

But this is not how they expected to grow old: Squatting in a vacant building in central Beirut, displaced many times.

Yet they conjure hospitality for visiting reporters, pull up a donated plastic chair, and unspool the stories of their lives — which also tell the history of southern Lebanon.

“What can I say? It’s all anxiety and war,” Allawiya, 60, says.

A building in central Beirut where families who have been displaced by Israeli attacks are staying. Over a million people in Lebanon have been displaced since early March, according to the Lebanese government.
A building in central Beirut where families who have been displaced by Israeli attacks are staying. Over a million people in Lebanon have been displaced since early March, according to the Lebanese government. Claire Harbage / NPR

She and Wehbe, 67, are among the more than one million people the Lebanese government says have been displaced by Israel’s current invasion, which began last month after Lebanese Hezbollah militants fired rockets into Israel. They said they were retaliating against U.S. and Israeli attacks on their benefactor, Iran, and for 15 months of Israeli attacks on Lebanon that continued after a previous ceasefire in November 2024.

Now, with a fresh ceasefire, both Israel and Hezbollah are warning displaced people not to return south. And Allawiya and Wehbe say they’ll stay put — it’s too dangerous.

This isn’t the first time these grandmothers have had to flee Israeli attacks.

Born in the south, displaced to Beirut, now fleeing again

Allawiya was born in the Lebanese village of Maroun al-Ras, near the Israeli border. Israeli troops invaded in 1982, destroyed her family’s house, and occupied south Lebanon for 18 years after that. The Allawiya family fled north to Beirut, settling in the capital’s southern suburbs with other displaced Shia Muslims.

But they road-tripped home every summer, and rebuilt their house — a labor of love while under occupation, she says.

“Our village, our land, our houses, our trees, our olives, our apples — our soil,” Allawiya says wistfully.

Allawiya shows a photo of her home in Maroun al-Ras that was destroyed just over a year ago. The home has been destroyed and rebuilt after successive Israeli invasions in 2006 and 2024.
Allawiya shows a photo of her home in Maroun al-Ras that was destroyed just over a year ago. The home has been destroyed and rebuilt after successive Israeli invasions in 2006 and 2024. Claire Harbage / NPR

“And also Israeli checkpoints and soldiers!” her friend Wehbe interrupts. “Back then you needed a permit to move around, like in the Palestinian Territories. We don’t want that again!”

“That’s why we support the resistance,” she declares.

By that, she means Hezbollah.

Why these grandmothers support Hezbollah

Hezbollah was founded during that 1982 invasion. Back then, Israel was targeting Palestinian militants. But Hezbollah said it was fighting for the Lebanese, against foreign occupation, and endeared itself to people like Allawiya and Wehbe. It funded the reconstruction of thousands of homes, often with Iranian money. And it celebrated victory when Israeli forces finally withdrew from southern Lebanon in 2000.

Lebanese people walk near the border fence with Israel in Kfar Kela on May 28, 2000, following Israeli forces withdrawing from southern Lebanon days earlier.
Lebanese people walk near the border fence with Israel in Kfar Kela on May 28, 2000, following Israeli forces withdrawing from southern Lebanon days earlier. Ramzi Haidar / AFP via Getty Images

“Oh how beautiful that moment was,” Allawiya recalls. “It was perfect.”

But it was fleeting.

The Allawiya family never managed to move home permanently. Israeli troops invaded again, in 2006 and 2024, in pursuit of Hezbollah militants, destroying the Allawiyas’ house each time.

They rebuilt after 2006 but didn’t have a chance to rebuild again, for a third time, before last month’s invasion displaced them again — this time from their apartment in Beirut’s southern suburbs to this vacant building in a central part of the city, which the landlord offered to displaced people. They’ve gone from one temporary home to another.

Not everyone in Lebanon supports Hezbollah. Many blame the group for these successive wars. Wehbe says she worries some of her fellow citizens might give up the south — acquiesce to another era of Israeli occupation — in exchange for a ceasefire.

Despite the current ceasefire, Israel says its troops will continue to hold Lebanese territory south of the country’s Litani River, which runs 10 to 20 miles north of the current border, to create what it calls a buffer zone from which Hezbollah can no longer fire rockets.

“How could the south not be part of Lebanon? It’s on our map!” Wehbe says. “If we could all just stand together, united against Israel, then Israel would leave us alone.”

She believes Hezbollah is her country’s best bet for getting Israeli troops to withdraw, since they did it before, in 2000.

Sheltering with 35 relatives — including a pregnant woman and children

Mohammad Atwi, 4, jumps on a chair in the apartment where his family is staying with dozens of relatives, including grandmother Kafa Wehbe (right), all displaced by Israeli attacks.
Mohammad Atwi, 4, jumps on a chair in the apartment where his family is staying with dozens of relatives, including grandmother Kafa Wehbe (right), all displaced by Israeli attacks. Claire Harbage / NPR

Allawiya, Wehbe and 35 of their relatives are all squatting in this vacant building together. On April 7, they stayed up all night, awaiting the announcement of a ceasefire between the United States and Iran. They trusted early accounts from Pakistani mediators that the deal would include Lebanon, and assumed that would mean Israeli attacks would end and they’d be allowed to go home.

“We were happy! We started cleaning, preparing to leave this place,” Allawiya recalls.

But her hopes were dashed the next morning, on April 8, when Israel struck Lebanon 100 times in 10 minutes — killing more than 350 people, according to Lebanese authorities. Many of the strikes hit central Beirut — shaking the building where the Allawiya and Wehbe families were huddled.

Allawiya says that experience makes her wary of trusting in an Israel-Lebanon ceasefire, announced by President Trump on April 16. As long as it’s described as temporary — for 10 days, rather than permanent — she says it still feels too dangerous to go home.

“To be honest, we don’t feel safe going back,” she says. “The Israelis may break their promise.”

Former neighbors, displaced like them, keep calling. They’re trying to figure out if their homes in Beirut’s suburbs are still standing. The area is home to some of Hezbollah’s offices, and Israeli airstrikes have hit many times.

But it’s not that apartment Allawiya is dreaming of. It’s her family’s previous home in the south, in Maroun al-Ras, which is now under Israeli control yet again. It’s part of the “buffer zone” Israel says it may hold for months, even years.

Dreaming of rebuilding again

One of Allawiya’s tech-savvy kids has made a video of their ancestral home, with a carousel of photos from when it was still standing, set to a ballad written by an Egyptian singer, Sherine, about Israel’s 2006 invasion of Lebanon. It’s called “Lebanon in the Heart.”

In this barren, borrowed, barely furnished apartment, Allawiya hunches over her cell phone, replaying this video over and over.

Baby clothes hang from  clotheslines on the balcony of the apartment where the family is staying.
Baby clothes hang from clotheslines on the balcony of the apartment where the family is staying. Claire Harbage / NPR

“Wake up, oh South! The sun is setting,” she mumbles the lyrics to the music. “Lebanon is in the heart.”

The refrain continues: “There is no one but us to protect our homeland.”

This renewed war has interrupted treatment Allawiya had been getting for cancer. One of her daughters-in-law is seven months pregnant. The grandchildren are bouncing off the walls, without school.

They can’t stay in this donated apartment forever. But even with a ceasefire, they don’t know when it’ll be safe to go home.

Copyright 2026 NPR

Lauren Frayer covers South Asia for NPR News. In 2018, she opened a new NPR bureau in India's biggest city, its financial center, and the heart of Bollywood—Mumbai.

She has covered the rise of Hindu nationalism in India, the aftermath of Sri Lanka's civil war and the power of a 19th century short story to combat racism against Afghan refugees. In 2019, she met the Dalai Lama at his monastery in northern India, and reported on the sticky geopolitics of who decides his successor. On Mahatma Gandhi's 150th birthday, Frayer examined how his legacy has changed.

When a 6-year-old Indian girl died of heat stroke on the U.S.-Mexico border, Frayer traced her path back to the Punjab, met her grieving grandparents – and uncovered a smuggling ring responsible for a 10,000% spike in the number of Indians detained on that border. For a year, Frayer followed an interfaith couple whose wedding plans were upended by 'Love Jihad' – an anti-Muslim conspiracy theory that's now law in several Indian states.

In 2022, Frayer was awarded the Overseas Press Club of America's Lowell Thomas Award for her coverage of India's COVID-19 outbreak, and a Gracie Award for coverage of India's farmer protests.

Frayer reported on caste discrimination for a 2020 episode of NPR's Rough Translation podcast, and is working on a new podcast about love marriage in India.

When Russia invaded Ukraine, Frayer was in the first batch of NPR reporters to cross from Poland into the embattled country. She chronicled the flow of Ukrainian refugees out, and military volunteers in. She also reported on the surprisingly long history of Ukrainian women in combat, a spiritual revolt among Orthodox Christians and how Ukrainian rock stars are turning their trauma into art.

Before moving to India, Frayer was a regular freelance contributor to NPR for seven years, based in Madrid. During that time, she substituted for NPR bureau chiefs in Seoul, London, Istanbul, Islamabad, and Jerusalem. She also served as a guest host of Weekend Edition Sunday.

In Europe, Frayer profiled a Portuguese opera singer-turned protest leader, and a 90-year-old survivor of the Spanish Civil War, exhuming her father's remains from a 1930s-era mass grave. In the fall of 2015, Frayer spent two months covering the flow of migrants & refugees across Hungary & the Balkans – and profiled a Syrian rapper among them. She interviewed a Holocaust survivor who owed his life to one kind stranger, and managed to get a rare interview with the Dutch far-right leader Geert Wilders – by sticking her microphone between his bodyguards in the Hague.

Farther afield, she has introduced NPR listeners to a Pakistani TV evangelist, a Palestinian surfer girl in Gaza, and K-pop performers campaigning in South Korea's presidential election.

Frayer has also contributed to The New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, and the BBC.

Her international career began in the Middle East, where she was an editor on the Associated Press' Middle East regional desk in Cairo, and covered the 2006 Israel-Hezbollah war in Syria and southern Lebanon. In 2007, she spent a year embedded with U.S. troops in Iraq.

On a break from journalism, Frayer drove a Land Rover across Africa for a year, from Cairo to Cape Town, sleeping in a tent on the car's roof. She once made the front page of a Pakistani newspaper, simply for being a woman commuting to work in Islamabad on a bicycle.

Born and raised in a suburb of New York City, Frayer holds a bachelor's degree in philosophy from The College of William & Mary in Virginia. She speaks Spanish, Portuguese, rusty French and Arabic, and is now learning Hindi.

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