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Simple Shad Roe

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David S. Deutsch for NPR /

The hardest part of this very simple preparation is careful handling of the delicate sacs of roe. Gently place them in hot fat so they’re not punctured, and cook the eggs at a heat (at least medium) so they don’t pop and spray all over you and the kitchen. You can cover the pan toward the end if it helps. I usually serve this shad roe with anchovy butter — softened butter mixed with anchovy paste to taste. Just slather a little on the hot roe and then be sure to lick the plate.

Makes 4 servings

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup flour, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper

4 sets shad roe (for a total of 8 sacs)

Heat the butter and olive oil in a large heavy frying pan (I use cast iron) until butter begins to bubble.

Dredge the roe through the seasoned flour mixture and lay gently in the hot fat. Keep heat at medium and cook each set 3 to 5 minutes per side, depending on the size of the set. When done, the sac will be firm to the touch and slightly browned. The roe should be pink in the middle. Don’t overcook.

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