Often in late winter, I envision a healthy, lush early spring garden full of fresh greens, carrots and other cold hardy vegetables. To achieve this, I have to start my seeds indoors, providing the appropriate amount of warmth, light, moisture and fertilizer to maximize their growth and prevent fungal diseases and leggy seedlings.
This process can be time consuming but very rewarding. If you start with quality seeds that have a high germination rate and pair that with a good growing medium, consistent moisture, warmth and direct light, then you are well on your way.
I start my seeds in two ways: cluster growing which is germinating many seeds in a small space using seed starter mix or in multi-cell trays using sifted potting soil. Seeds are labeled and covered with clear plastic and/or dome lids to create mini greenhouses, trapping in moisture and humidity. They are then either placed in a warm sunlit room until the seeds sprout or on an enclosed garden stand with adjustable grow lights above each shelf.
I have found that my challenges usually begin after germination. Therefore, over the next two-to-six weeks, I keep a watchful eye on my growing conditions to ensure my seedlings grow into strong plants to be hardened off and transplanted.
Keys to my growth success:
•GARDEN STANDS: Multi-shelf racks or greenhouse stands which allow the grow lights to be attached and their heat to warm the soil of the seedling trays above.
•LIGHT: Use grow lights to provide 12-14 hours of direct light. Adjustable light positioning to 3-6 inches above the seedlings helps the plants to develop sturdier stems and wider leaf growth closer to the soil level.
•Poor light causes your seedlings to become leggy – with long thin stems – as they reach towards the light. Therefore, correct light positioning and continual raising of the lights is very important to the plant’s growth.
•WARMTH: To create warmth, I use reflective insulation material to encase the stand. This reflects the light and encloses warmth. If the area is too cold during the day, I set a space heater to 60-65 degrees.
•VENT COVER: Trapped moisture and high humidity conditions can cause fungal disease. As soon as the seeds consistently start to germinate, I tent the plastic or open the lid vents to increase airflow and decrease the moisture on the sprouts.
•I recover the plastic cover, after the seedlings have developed their first and/or second set of true leaves. After adjusting to the temperature and moisture change, my cluster seedlings are transplanted into multi-cell trays or pots.
•WATERING: Regular top misting is used to prevent the soil from drying out and plant scorching from the lights. Bottom tray watering to maintain soil moisture for good root development. Moist soil and occasional semi-dry soil to encourage root growth. Wet soil would lead to poor root development and root rot.
•FEEDING: Regular two-to-three times a week liquid feeding with diluted fish or powder fertilizer from beneath the cell tray and top misting in place of watering.
Try applying these useful methods as you start your seeds indoors.
Please check out these additional resources:
Johnny Seeds - Seed Planting Schedule
Farmer’s Almanac - Starting Seeds Indoors
Good luck starting your seeds!
Shana