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For the Ambitious Gardener

Vegetarian Suppers
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Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen, by Deborah Madison, paperback, 240 pages, list price: $19.95

Deborah Madison has made a career out of expanding the repertoire of countless vegetarian families. As the years have brought us better farmers' markets and a tidal wave of organics, Madison has really hit her stride. Here are carrot tops and radish greens, broccoli romanesco, huckleberries and fresh tomato sauces. In a welcome blow for practicality, Madison ditches the appetizer-entree-dessert format. Instead, every chapter focuses on a different sort of main dish — hearty cool-weather suppers like golden Polenta Squares with Creamy Gorgonzola, soul-sustaining supper sandwiches like Roasted Portobello Sandwich with Mozzarella and Braised Cooking Greens. There's a whole chapter on pasta with vegetables, like the nutty, wheaten Pasta Shells and Chickpeas, with its diverse medley of textures. Since most of us only ever bother with a cookbook if it's supper anyhow, the result is an unusually high percentage of recipes you'll actually use.

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