NPR News

Aunty Sen's Scallion Pancakes

NPR

Published May 6, 2008 at 4:29 PM EDT

Generously scatter scallions over 6-to-8-inch-diameter circle of rolled-out dough.

Roll up the circle into a flattish cigar shape.

With the seam side up, roll the cigar into a spiral or snail roll and press together to seal.

Separate the finished rolls with parchment paper.

Gently flatten the spiral with a rolling pin. At first, it will look like a spiral-patterned disk. Keep rolling until you have a 1/8-inch circle again.

The scallion pancake, a street-food favorite in China, hit the American mainstream in the 1980s and was an instant hit. Oniony, salty, crunchy and served piping hot with a thin sweet sauce — who could resist? In our family, Aunty Sen's scallion pancake sets the gold standard. There are different schools of thought on how to construct the dough (boiling water vs. cold water, cake flour vs. bread flour, etc.), but none are difficult. To get those scallions properly entrapped in the dough, you have to roll it twice. First you roll a disk into a cigar, and then you roll the cigar up into a snail. Once you've mastered that, it's pretty simple. What's more, you can make them ahead of time, even freeze them if you want.

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups pastry or cake flour

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt

1/2 cup very hot water

1/2 cup very cold water

8 large or 12 slender scallions

1/4 cup sesame oil for brushing

Flour for dusting

3 tablespoons vegetable oil for frying

Sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 small garlic clove, minced

1 small scallion, minced

1 slice of ginger, 1/8-inch thick, peeled and minced

2 to 3 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon Asian chili sauce of any kind (e.g. chili bean paste, chili-garlic sauce, Sriracha)

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon rice vinegar

2 to 4 tablespoons water (depending on how thin you like your sauce)

For the sauce:

Combine all the sauce ingredients. Add the water last, to thin to the consistency you like. Taste and adjust the ingredients. Some people like more chili sauce or sugar.

For the pancakes:

Combine the two flours and salt in a bowl with a fork. Dump half out onto a sheet of waxed paper. Add the 1/2 cup of hot water to flour in bowl and stir with a fork until a ragged dough just comes together. Push it to the side. In the other side of the bowl, add the remaining flour and the 1/2 cup of cold water and stir with the fork to combine into a second ragged dough. Start kneading the two pieces of dough into a ball with floured hands, until you achieve a rough, but not shaggy, ball; you may need a bit more flour to make it work. Let rest for at least 15 minutes.

While the dough is resting, mince the scallions as finely as you can. Put the sesame oil in a small bowl.

Place the dough on the counter. Using your hands, roll the dough into a fat snake about 12 inches long. Divide the snake into 6 or 8 pieces.

Dust the counter and one piece of the snake with extra flour. Roll it into a ball with your hands. Then, again using your hands, flatten the ball into a circle. With a rolling pin, roll the circle out until it is about 1/8-inch thick (it will be 6 to 8 inches in diameter). Brush the entire surface with sesame oil and scatter generously with scallions.

Roll up the circle into a flattish cigar shape (see photos). With the seam side up, roll the cigar into a spiral or snail roll and press together to seal. Dip the roll in flour and set aside on a plate. Repeat with remaining 5 (or 7) pieces, separating the finished rolls with parchment paper.

At this point, you can make the pancakes right away or set them aside, covered, in the refrigerator, for up to 24 hours. (Don't let plastic wrap touch their tops while resting or it will stick.)

Place a rack onto a baking sheet. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees and place the sheet and rack into the oven, for keeping the pancakes warm later. Dip one of the rolls in flour. Lay the roll flat on your work surface, so that you're looking straight down at the spiral. Gently flatten the spiral with a rolling pin. At first, it will look like a spiral-patterned disk. Keep rolling until you have a 1/8-inch circle again.

Heat 1 1/2 teaspoons of oil in a 9- or 10-inch heavy skillet over high heat. When oil is hot, carefully lower the pancake into the pan. It should bubble a bit, and the layers may rise a little if the dough is well rested.

Cook until the first side is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn the heat to low and cook the other side, about 2 minutes. Lift out with tongs and transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Slice into 8 pieces and serve immediately, with the sauce.

Note: They really are best piping hot, so you don't want to make all 6 at once. Two at a time will do. If you feel up to it, cook with two skillets at a time. If not, slide the first pancake onto the rack in the preheated oven, make the second one, and then rush them both to the table.