Hummus

Talk to six Syrian grannies and you'll get six answers about how to make the best hummus. I have developed this recipe to be smooth and somewhat light. Feel free to substitute canned chickpeas, but do not skip the sieve. It's what creates the smooth texture. If using dried chickpeas, advance preparation is required.

Makes 6 servings

1 cup dried chickpeas

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (or more to taste)

2 to 3 medium-sized cloves garlic, peeled and mashed until smooth with a pinch of salt in mortar and pestle

1/2 cup tahini

1 tablespoon cumin powder

1 tablespoon coriander powder

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

If using dried chickpeas, place them in a pot and cover with 4 cups cold water. Add baking soda and stir. Cover pot and place in refrigerator. Let soak at least 12 hours.

Drain the chickpeas and rinse well. Cover the chickpeas with 4 cups fresh water, cover pot, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat immediately, letting covered pot simmer gently for about 45 minutes. The chickpeas are done when the inside is a uniform yellow, with no white nodes of starch.

Drain the chickpeas, retaining about 2 cups cooking water. Let chickpeas cool to room temperature. Place chickpeas and cooking water in the refrigerator until well chilled, about two hours. Do not put hot chickpeas in refrigerator -- they'll get pasty.

Place chilled chickpeas in food processor. Add salt and lemon juice. Process about 1 minute, until mixture is very smooth and lighter in color. If the mixture is too thick or the blade is straining, add cooking water 1 tablespoon at a time.

Place puree in a fine mesh sieve over a bowl. With rubber spatula, force puree through the sieve. The skins of the chickpeas will be left behind in the sieve. Discard skins.

Rinse food processor and blade, and return the puree to the processor. Add garlic, tahini and spices, and process just until mixed.

With processor running, drizzle the olive oil into the hummus. Scrape down the sides, and adjust salt and lemon. If mixture is not light and creamy, add cooking water 1 tablespoon at a time until it is.

Serve topped with olive oil and a sprinkle of cumin. Use pita bread or fresh raw vegetables for dipping.

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