NPR News

Mock Turtle Soup

NPR | By Chris Kimball

Published October 13, 2010 at 4:16 PM EDT

The "mock" in Mock Turtle Soup is a calf's head that is simmered to make a stock for the soup. Be sure to remove the brains first (and the eyeballs), and have the head cut into pieces. Preferably, this is done by your butcher, not at home. (Eyeballs are firmly attached -- they won't just pop out!) The recipe for Brain Balls can be found at www.fannieslastsupper.com.

Stock:

1 calf's head
1 cup white wine
1 smoked ham hock
5 pounds beef round, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 bay leaves
5 cloves
6 allspice berries
24 peppercorns
4 onions, chopped rough
4 carrots, chopped rough
4 ribs celery, chopped rough
1 head garlic, halved across the equator
8 sprigs parsley
4 sprigs thyme

1. Split calf's head in half, remove the brains (reserve for the following Crispy Brain Ball recipe) and eyes (discard), cut out the tongue, and clean well, including the nostrils. Cut the head into pieces, soak for one hour in 20-quart stockpot in slightly salted water.

2. Drain, cover with 6 quarts cold water along with the wine, ham hock, beef, bay leaves, cloves, allspice berries, peppercorns, onions, carrots and celery, garlic, and herbs. Simmer for 3 to 4 hours, or until the head meat is tender, skimming foam as necessary.

3. Transfer bones, meat and vegetable to colander set in large bowl. Pour broth through fine mesh strainer (adding any liquid given off through colander), let sit for 10 minutes and skim off fat; use as needed (or cool quickly to room temperature; refrigerate until needed, removing fat from top before using). Yields about 4 quarts. Reserve the meat from the head along with the ham hock and tongue; shred into small pieces; this should yield about 3 cups. Discard pieces of beef round.

Soup:

4 tablespoons butter
2 large onions, diced medium, (about 3 cups)
2 tablespoons chopped fine sage
3 tablespoons flour
2 quarts broth (calf's head broth)
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper
1 medium carrot, 2-inch julienned (about 3/4 cup)
1/2 turnip, 2-inch julienned (about 3/4 cup)
1 medium leek, white only, cut into 2-inch lengths, cut in half lengthwise, and julienned (about 3/4 cups)
1 tablespoon sherry
1/4 cup chopped chives

1. Heat butter in large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat; when foaming subsides, add onions and sage and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 8 to 12 minutes. Add flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add broth; bring to boil, skimming off any foam that forms on surface. Reduce heat to medium-low, add bay leaf, partially cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until flavors meld, about 20 to 25 minutes. Strain through fine-mesh strainer. Season to taste.

2. Blanch julienned vegetables in 3 quarts seasoned stock, for 1 to 2 minutes. Shock in ice water. Reserve.

3. To serve: Reheat soup base; finish with sherry. Cook Brain Balls (see recipe link above). To each bowl add equal portions of room temperature vegetables and 1 to 2 tablespoons pulled meat. Pour hot soup over garnish. Finish with 2 to 3 Brain Balls per serving and chopped chives.