Oven-frying sweet potatoes is a challenge, because they're watery and sugary inside. Because they're watery, they simply won't form a thick, crunchy crust, and if you're not careful they'll end up soggy. Because they're sugary, they start to burn the moment all the water has evaporated from any part of the fry. That's why, so often, you get sweet potato fries that are burned on the thin end, yet soggy on the thick end. The solution is to cut them thin and even, spread them out on a rack over a baking sheet (so you have a fighting chance of crisping both sides), and watch them like a hawk at the end. A good oven-fried sweet potato will be a little chewy, with a thin, delicate crust. That happy state of affairs lasts about 10 minutes, so eat them fast.
Makes 4 servings
2 sweet potatoes, peeled
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon toasted, ground cumin (optional)
1 teaspoon ground sumac* (optional)
*Available at Middle Eastern grocers and online spice shops.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Cut the peeled sweet potatoes into 1/2-inch slices, then cut the slices into 1/2-inch batons (alternatively, you can cut them into wedges, but the thick ends should be no more than 1/3-inch thick. You will have to endure a bit of blackening on the thin tips).
Toss the sweet potatoes in a large mixing bowl with the oil, salt and pepper. Distribute them onto a baking rack set over a baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tops start to show a bit of crust. Flip them with tongs and bake for 10 to 15 minutes more, watching closely to make sure nothing burns. Taste for salt. Season with the paprika and optional cumin and sumac. Serve immediately.
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