True french fries are deep-fried twice. The first frying, or "blanching," precooks the interior. The second one sets the crust. This two-step recipe adapted from Perfect Vegetables, by the editors of Cooks Illustrated (America's Test Kitchen 2003), achieves a remarkably similar result by first steaming, then baking. Although the original recipe doesn't ask you to, I find you get the best results if you bake just a little bit longer and turn each of the fries over, halfway through, with your tongs. A little more trouble, yes, but oh so worth it.
Makes 4 servings
4 large russet potatoes, scrubbed
5 teaspoons peanut oil
Salt and ground black pepper
Cut the scrubbed potatoes into 1/2-inch slices, then cut the slices into 1/2-inch batons.
Rinse the cut fries in a large bowl under cold running water until the water turns from milky colored to clear.
Put 1/2 teaspoon of the oil on each of two rimmed baking sheets (you can line the sheets with foil to reduce the cleanup). Use a paper towel to spread the oil evenly over the entire surface. Place both sheets in the oven (on the lower-middle and upper-middle racks) and heat the oven to 450 degrees (or 400 with convection fan on).
Fit a large pot or Dutch oven with a steamer basket and fill the pot with enough water to reach just below the bottom of the basket. Bring the water to a boil over high heat and add the potatoes to the basket. Cover and steam until the potatoes are glistening but still firm, about 5 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the pot and spread them out in a single layer on two clean kitchen towels. Pat the potatoes dry using a third kitchen towel.
Toss the potatoes and the remaining 4 teaspoons oil in a large bowl to coat. Season the potatoes generously with salt and pepper to taste and toss again to blend. Carefully remove one baking sheet from the oven, and place half of the potatoes on the baking sheet so they are spread out and not touching each other. Place the baking sheet back in the oven and repeat the process using the second baking sheet and the remaining potatoes.
Bake until the potatoes are golden brown and have begun to puff, 30 to 35 minutes. After 20 minutes, take the fries out and flip them over with tongs. When you return the baking sheets to the oven, switch their positions top and bottom. Serve immediately.
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