NPR News

Little Milk Breads (Petits Pains au Lait)

NPR

Published November 28, 2007 at 1:48 PM EST

From Savory Baking from the Mediterranean, by Anissa Helou

Pains au lait, like baugettes, are made all over France. But while it's hard to make a good baugette in a home kitchen, homemade pains au lait are just as good as commercial ones — or even better, if made with the best flour, butter, and milk. In France, they are primarily used for sandwiches, but they are served plain with meals.

Makes 6 Individual Breads

1 1/4 teaspoons (just over 1/2 package) active dry yeast

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk, at room temperature

2 1/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading and shaping

2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons fine kosher salt or sea salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water

1. Disolve the yeast in the milk and stir until creamy

2. Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the yeast and butter to the well and, with fingertips, gently and gradually mix with the flour until well incorporated. Knead briefly to make a rough ball of dough.

3. Remove the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Knead for about 3 minutes. Invert the bowl over the dough and let rest for 15 minutes. Knead for about 2 to 3 minutes more, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Shape the dough into a ball and place in a lightly floured clean bowl. Cover with a plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1 hour. Fold the dough, cover again, and let rise for 1 hour more. The dough should have doubled in volume.

4. Return the dough to the work surface and divide it into 6 equal pieces. Gently shape each piece into a ball. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rest for 15 minutes. Shape the pieces into batards about 8 inches long. Press down on the ends to flatten them slightly and transfer seam side down to a nonstick baking sheet, or to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone pastry mat, leaving at leasr 2 inches between the pieces to expand as they rise and bake. Cover with a wet but not dripping kitchen towel and let rise for 1 hour. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450 F.

5. Uncover the breads and let their surfaces dry for about 5 minutes. Brush with the egg yolk mixture. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden all over; check after 10 minutes, and if the breads are coloring too fast, reduce the heat to 350 F. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Serve at room temperature, or reheated.